Sparkling Banana Bread

MAKES ONE 8 x 8-INCH SQUARE

Packed with both mashed and whole bananas, this is my ideal banana bread. To maximize the ratio of the cinnamon-sugar topping to the moist, flavorful interior, I bake it in a cake pan. In the oven, the topping transforms into a sparkling crust that releases wave after wave of cinnamon aroma with each bite.

For the Banana Bread:

• 1½ cups (203g) all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons (6g) kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 ¼ cups (288g) well-mashed ripe banana (about 3 bananas; see Note)
• ¾ packed cup (150g) dark brown sugar
• ½ cup (140g) neutral oil
• ½ cup (80g) buttermilk or sour cream, at room temperature
• 1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature

For the Topping:

• 6 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
• 2 very ripe bananas, halved lengthwise

Adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position and preheat to 350°F. Coat an 8-inch square baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Line with a parchment sling and spray the parchment.

To make the banana bread, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, kosher salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cinnamon.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the mashed banana, brown sugar, oil, buttermilk, vanilla, and eggs until evenly combined.

Stir the banana mixture into the dry ingredients and mix to combine, making sure to incorporate all the dry flour at the bottom of the bowl.

To make the topping, in a small bowl, combine the granulated sugar, cinnamon, and flaky salt.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and then let the pan drop from a height of 3 inches onto the countertop a couple times to release any air bubbles that might have gotten trapped inside the batter. Sprinkle the topping in a thick, even layer over the batter, then gently place the banana halves, cut-side up, atop the batter, cutting into pieces as needed to make them fit.

Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until a toothpick inserted around the halved bananas emerges clean.

Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing. (Alternatively, leave the cake to cool in the pan and serve it directly from there.)

Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Tahini Sbagliato

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil
• 3 tablespoons well-stirred tahini
• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• 1 tablespoon water
• 2½ teaspoons white miso
• 2 teaspoons maple or agave syrup
• 2 tablespoons minced dill
• 2 teaspoons minced cilantro
• 1 teaspoon minced parsley
• 1 ½ teaspoons onion powder
• 1 packed teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
• 1 scallion, minced
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• ½ teaspoon (2g) kosher salt

Sbagliato means"mistaken" in Italian and though this dressing was initially a mistake, it turned out to be a good one. Shortly after I decided to develop a range of incidentally-vegan-yet-irresistibly-creamy dressings, I started working on a tahini-based ranch. But guess what-I'm no food scientist! No matter how many times I tried to combine fresh and dried herbs, fresh and powdered alliums, and multiple acids in varying combinations, the dressing didn't transport me to anyone's ranch-hidden or not! But everyone who tasted it raved about it. Eventually I admitted I'd stumbled onto something special. Even if I hadn't achieved my original goal, I couldn't deny that this savory, tangy, herb-packed dressing is a winner.

In a liquid measuring cup or wide-mouth jar, combine all the ingredients and whisk or puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and more lemon juice as needed. Add up lo 1 more tablespoon of water as needed lo thin out the dressing to your desired consistency.

Cover and refrigerate remaining dressing for up to I week. When using leftover refrigerated dressing. you may need to whisk in a teaspoon or two or water to return it lo the right consistency.

Fluffy Pork Meatballs

Makes 16 to 18 Meatballs

• 1½ cups panko bread crumbs
• ¾ cup whole milk
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for cooking
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 pound ground pork shoulder
• 1 large egg
• ½ cup packed finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
• ¼ cup packed minced parsley
• 1 ½ teaspoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed
• 1½ teaspoons chile flakes
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 teaspoons(6g) kosher salt
• 4 cups Simple Tomato Sauce (page 359)
• 1 to 1½ cups water
• Olive Oil-Fried Bread (page 94), rubbed with garlic, for serving

While I've always been a fan of the old camp song "On Top of Spaghetti,'' I firmly believe that's the very last place a meatball belongs. No matter how many meatballs I'm served, the pasta-to-meatball ratio is never right, and I always end up with half a bowl of lonely spaghetti! No, I prefer to serve these tender meatballs atop a slice of olive oil-fried bread rubbed with garlic, with ample sauce spooned over both. And covered with lots and lots of cheese (grated Parmesan, naturally)-because that part of the song was spot on.

ln a medium bowl, combine The panko and milk. Use your hands to massage the liquid into the crumbs, but do not overwork. Set aside to soak until completely absorbed.

Set a skillet over low heat and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and gently cook, stirring regularly, until soft but without color, 10 to 12 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, but don't let it take on any color, about 30 seconds. Scrape everything into a large bowl and allow it to cool.

Once the onion has cooled, add the pork, egg, Parmesan. parsley, fennel seeds, chile flakes, black pepper, and salt. Use your hands to combine the mixture well. Add the panko and milk to the pork mixture and gently mix to combine. Avoid overworking or overcompressing the mixture. which can result in gummy or dense meatballs.

Make a small test patty to test the seasoning. Set a small skillet over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. Add the patty and cook until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, fennel, and chile flakes as needed. Repeat with another test patty until the mixture is just right. Cover

and refrigerate the mixture for 30 minutes to 1 hour.